The Oldways Table Excerpts: Stories, Lessons, and Recipes from Each Chapter

Chapter 3: Beans
Learn Bean Basics

In case you're not a seasoned bean user, here are the basics of bean cuisine: cleaning, soaking, and cooking.

CLEANING DRIED BEANS
Cover the beans with cold water and pick them over to remove any foreign particles or dried skins that float to the surface. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water.

OVERNIGHT SOAKING METHOD
Soaking cuts cooking time by up to several hours. Place the beans in a large bowl and add enough water so the beans are about 3 inches below the surface; use cold water to prevent fermentation. Leave overnight. This is the best soaking method for beans to remain whole with a tender but firm texture, and a creamy consistency without mushiness once cooked.

ALTERNATE QUICK-SOAK METHOD
Put the beans in a pot with about 3 inches of cold water to cover. For each cup of beans, add 1/4 teaspoon baking soda. Bring a boil and boil for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and allow them to soak for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours, or until the beans have doubled in size. The baking soda will soften the beans and help break down the troublesome gas-producing oligosaccharides. It will also reduce the cooking time. Note that the quick-soak (or no-soak) method may cause beans to split or result in a slightly mushy texture.

It is not necessary to pre-soak beans, but beans that have not been presoaked overnight or quick-soaked may require more cooking water, about 1/4 to 1/2 cup per cup or beans, to replace the water that evaporates during their longer cooking time.

COOKING
Cover the beans with cold water according to recipe instructions. Cover the pan and bring the water to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat immediately and simmer, partially covered, until tender. The beans should cook without stirring to keep them intact and firm. Cooking time will depend on the type of bean and its freshness. Do not add salt or any acidic seasonings, such as vinegar, wine, citrus, or tomatoes, until after cooking; any of these will increase cooking time dramatically and toughen the skins of the beans.

BEAN FACTS
1 cup cooked beans = 210 to 240 calories
1 cup dried beans = 6 ounces

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