The Oldways Table Excerpts: Stories, Lessons, and Recipes from Each Chapter

Chapter 1: Grains
Barbara Lynch's Brioche Pizzas with Prosciutto and Figs

This pizza recipe is an interpretation of a New World pizza. Barbara Lynch first started making pizzas in 1992 at Todd English's original Figs Restaurant in Charlestown (in those days there was just one Olive's and only one Figs). She moved on to owning her own award-winning Boston restaurants (No. 9 Park and B&G Oyster) and winning her own Beard Award. We think she makes one of the best pizzas in Boston, and we're sure you'll agree with us.

This is an hors d'oeuvre that borrows from the French and the Italians -- pizza, but with a crust made from brioche. The topping could be anything that adds a hint of salt, though Barbara thinks that the combination of the prosciutto and fig is pretty good. Note that the dough needs to chill overnight, and that you should form it while it it cold -- otherwise it's too sticky. You can also make it ahead and freeze it -- just thaw overnight in the refrigerator before proceeding with the rolling and topping.

Makes 12 hors d'oeuvres

BRIOCHE

Pour the warm milk into a bowl and sprinkle the yeast over. Let stand for 10 minutes. Add 1 of the eggs and 1 cup of the flour and mix thoroughly until well combined. Sprinkle a second cup of the flour over the top of the dough (do not mix in) and let the mixture rest for 30 to 40 minutes.

After this "sponge" has rested, transfer it to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Add the sugar, salt, remaining 4 eggs, and 1 cup of the remaining flour. Mix for 1 minutes at medium speed, then add the final 1/2 cup flour, and beat continuously on medium speed for 15 minutes. If after 15 minutes the dough is not cohesive, add additional flour up to 3 tablespoons. With the mixer running, add the butter in small pieces. Continue beating until the dough comes together, about 5 minutes more. The dough will be soft and sticky. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

After the dough has risen, deflate it by gently pressing down on it, then cover tightly with plastic, and refrigerate overnight.

The following day, preheat the oven to 375 F. Divide the dough into 12 pieces (each piece should be roughly 1 ounce) and, on a floured surface, flatten the dough balls into small rounds and prick all over with the tines of a fork. Transfer the rounds to a baking sheet and top each round with a slice of prosciutto and a fig, cut side down. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Bake in the oven until the dough is lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

Next chapter